我的云南之旅

上一篇 / 下一篇  2012-05-14 19:24:57

我的云南之旅

 

还没动身之前,听说的都是云南是如何如何之美,加上去一趟云南的价格也确实不低,在我的想象里,那里的风光就如人间仙境,美不可言。

 

其实我是一个怕出门的人,对旅游一点也不感冒。往往是一出门就想往家跑。但这次出行是势在必行的喔,加上同行的是一大群熟悉而亲近的同事,想来心里还是有那么一点期待的。

 

第一站是昆明,传说的春城第一个惊喜是一下飞机当地导游每人送一朵红玫瑰,果然有地方特色。作为云南的省城,它远不够咱们广州气派和现代。石林是昆明最出名的景点了,一到那,看到在电视天气预告那里经常见到的“石林”两个字就在眼前,我又惊又喜。大小石林的石头奇形怪状,怪石嶙峋,险恶异常。有的石头经过游人长年累月的抚摸,早已光滑无比,摸着很凉快,舒服。周边的景色花红草绿,煞是好看。怪不得大家都说昆明的花特别红,叶尤其绿,的确如此。我们在路边看到一排的青松,那翠绿的颜色明亮地照耀着我们的眼睛,令人赏心悦目,流连忘返。而翠湖公园说是昆明的“城中之玉”,虽然没有入内细赏,但依我看还不如我们的鹤山公园美。而很期待的花卉市场由于整改没有去,不能把云南的芳香带回家也实在遗憾,还没来得及回味一下,我们就动身到大理了。

 

去大理的途中我们还游了号称国家AAAA景区的“银都水乡”,感觉也是敷衍游客的一个地方,尤其是那喝三碗茶看的白族表演,哦,四个节目都是那八个出勤不出力的演员是不是太寒碜了。那小小的三碗茶,第一碗是甜茶,甜丝丝的;第二碗是苦茶,苦口良药呗,都来了一个一饮而尽;要命的是第三碗回味茶,小啜一口马上吐出来,说不出口的怪异味道,果真令人回味啊!随后到的“寸氏庄园”,除了门把都是银制的引起一阵惊叹后,也不过如此而已。导游说是云南的首富的房子,几扇门窗确实精致外,面积也实在出不了场面,你看人家那乔家大院,那才是大户人家。哦,怪不得云南是一个穷省。想到这里,我觉得自己真刻薄。

 

大理古城也没有什么特色,至少我觉得平遥古城比它有古味得多,这座后来修葺的古城既不古代也不现代,没能留下深刻的印象。倒是路边的水果摊给了我们惊喜,十块就一兜我闻所未闻,见所未见的蛇皮果、红毛丹,吃起来味道还挺不错。最好笑的是眼看天色尚早,在广东六到七点的天色,我们还在东瞄西看,说笑嘻闹。一看手机居然是八点多了,早过了集中的时间,大吃一惊后赶紧往车赶,果然迟到了……

 

去丽江的是几个小时路上的颠簸,途中还参观了有世界最深的峡谷之称的“虎跳峡”,做事一向没恒心的我没有走到下面就往回走了,听大家说那汹涌澎湃的气势都值得一游,我倒没什么遗憾,壶口瀑布不比它更震撼吗?后来一同事也证实了这点,特别是看到他们走得上气不接下气的,我不由得有点沾沾自喜。

 

终于到丽江了,换了导游和司机是第一件值得开心的事。

 

闻名遐迩的丽江,果然是个好地方。记得回来不久的一晚看了《非诚勿扰》的节目,其中一个男嘉宾不记得是哪里人了,是一个比较出名的摄影师。当一位MM问他是否永远待在丽江的时候,他说了一句令人难忘的话:“我第一次到丽江下了飞机,我就决定死在这里了。”话虽然有夸张的成分,但无可否认,丽江气候真是没得说的。

 

在丽江,由于天气的原因,我们一大群人没去著名的大玉龙景区,改去了茶马古道。当我们一个个胆战心惊地骑上马背,马行走起来我们在马背左摇右晃的时候,几乎每一个人都花容失色,哭爹叫娘,那表情比死还难受。一个马夫照看三匹马走在泥泞不堪的小道上,心里的恐慌从头皮到脚跟。还好,跟我队的马夫牵着我的马不曾离开半步,那忐忑不安的心才踏实一点。可怜那没马夫照看的同事,几乎用哭出声的口吻在叫:“师傅,理理我吧”。遇到调皮的马儿的就更惨了,那马儿一边走,一边钻到旁边的草丛偷吃,心慌意乱的同事用普通话叫“不要吃!不要吃!”可怜的马儿哪里会听,结果是我们这群不怀好意的一阵狂笑。慢慢的,聪明的我们掌握的骑马的要诀,随着马背的摇晃有节奏地晃动,太好玩了。几个同事还在马夫的帮助下跑了马,令人妒忌。当回到出发地要下马的时候,我们每一个人都深切地体会到了什么叫“意犹未尽”。

 

虽然没去大玉龙雪山心里始终有个疙瘩,但晚上游览的丽江古城就能让我感觉到不枉此行。走着大理石铺的四方街上,两旁的商铺令人目不暇接。富有特色且物美价廉的商品真是为我们而设啊,一行购物狂人买个不亦乐乎。加上当晚是当地火把节的第一晚,游人摩肩接踵,那繁荣的景象就像节假日的广州上下九步行街。各具特色的酒吧里传出震耳欲聋的音乐声,好一派诱人的气氛。可惜胆小如鼠的我不敢光临,望了几眼又马上被各具特色的商品迷住了,一直走到脚都软了,才依依不舍地回到酒店,已经差不多是凌晨时分了。

 

啊,我最最期待的香格里拉,我们来啦!

 

引用一位同事的话:“太阳最早照耀的地方,是东方的建塘,人间最殊胜的地方,是奶子河畔的香格里拉。”单单是名字已经令人遐想不已,这人间仙境究竟是什么回事呢?首先令我们大吃一惊的是接待我们的当地导游,古怪的装扮,长及腰间的头发(男的),一上车就把我们给震住了。还好,其他一切还正常,熟悉了他以后大家都对他赞不绝口,这是后话。到达香格里拉的晚上我们就去了藏民家访。在一栋极具藏民特色的大房子里坐满了游客,大家围坐在一起,观看那藏民一家子的歌舞表演。极富感染力的表演,水平还蛮高的,主人两口子的独唱更令人叫绝,声音的穿透力之大直叫人觉得张靓颖所谓的的海豚音太能糊弄人。桌子上摆了藏民最爱吃的点心:酥油茶、奶酪、炒小麦粒、还有酒,一大盘子的烤牛肉。求学时每每读到“手抓羊肉”的时候都直吞口水的我此时以顾不上礼貌和身材,大口肉大口肉地吃了起来。那个爽啊!我们一行人在主持人的引导下大声说着不着调的藏语,跳着没章法的舞步,取笑着被选中做压寨夫人的两个靓女同事,气氛热烈,好久没有这样放纵地狂欢过了。

 

在香格里拉的第二天,我们主要是游览普达措国家公园。我们一行来了个绝早,想不到到8点多达景区的时候,已经是第195个到达的团了,处处都人头涌涌。哇塞,大家都集中这里来了。可能是早和这里的海拔高,一下车的我们马上感到了寒意阵阵,毛衣、围巾、甚至羽绒服都派上了用场。全副武装、整装待发的我们看上去有点滑稽,要知道,在广东,这时正是酷暑难耐的时候,对比太强烈了吧。精明的藏族另类导游在这里如鱼得水,颈上挂着第160编号团牌子的我们很快就进了候车大厅,这打尖的感觉真美妙。很快我们上了游览车,哈哈,同车的其他团还是第107编号呢,捡了个大便宜的快意在心里荡漾,真爽。看来我的公德心所剩无几了,可怜的人。

 

游览车在随着山势新修建的柏油公路上行驶,车里播着景区介绍的录音带。我用心地听,细心地看,生怕错过。可是好景不长,挤在车后的我开始觉得不太妥,那种晕车的感受,天啊,不要在这人间仙境的地方折磨我好吗?幸亏很快我们到了步行的一段,下了车,立马神清气爽。眼前的景色就用一个词形容:“清新”,那山、那水、那花、那树、加上山间云雾迷蒙,就是从小在农村长大见惯山山水水的我也惊叹那份保存得如此完整的“原始”。一行人走在山间栈道上,从两旁的松树丛里不时窜出几只小松鼠,引来了我们这群几十岁的人阵阵惊叫。湖水很清,很蓝,湖边倒躺着几十甚至几百年的枯木,除了脚下的栈道,一切是完整的原生态。在这里,随意一站,身后都是绝佳的风景,翠绿的草地上点缀了一些不知名的小花,远一点是宁静的湖泊,再后面是环绕着湖、云雾缭绕的山,往上一看,是蓝得发亮的天空,毫无瑕疵地浑为一体,大自然美得到了充分的体现。就像是事先商量好的,我们都没有大声的喧哗,生怕打破了这里的宁静,大家都在静静地在享受着这如诗如画的美景,接受着心灵的洗涤,一切无声胜有声。

 

再次乘上旅游车继续往前游览,车子在九曲十八弯的山路上行驶,随车导游说什么我半点都听不进去了,胃里翻江倒海的难受,我知道难逃一劫了,搽油、开窗透气,什么都不管用,脸上冰冻得厉害,我知道此时的我一定是脸和嘴唇苍白无色,像一只女鬼。车外的美景无暇顾及,我只盼望早点、再早点到目的地,然后下车,一走了之。终于到了出口,在一位美男子同事的搀扶下往回走,此时我却宁愿路远些,再远些。在丽江没有艳遇的遗憾,在这里终于如愿以偿了。心里一边窃喜着,口里一边“哎呦呦,哎呦呦,我还是不舒服”。美男子更用力地扶着,我又占了个大便宜。美!

 

就这样我们就结束了在云南的最后一程了,要动身回去了。一路走来,收获了美景无数,也曾沉醉于大自然里忘却尘世纷扰。与同事的一路同行,也收获了真挚的感情。但人在人间仙境,却时时若有所失,为什么呢?直到要走的一刻,我恍然大悟:一心来云南找心中的香格里拉,其实属于我的香格里拉一直在身边啊,就是我那平凡而温馨的家。出来几天,我无时无刻不惦记着家的一切,现在就要回去了,我恨不得插上翅膀往家飞,(呵呵,用翅膀飞哪够飞机快)那种渴望是任何美景都无法诱惑的。这感悟也是此行的一大收获。


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